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  • Them's Fightin' Herds

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Custom Fightsticks

What kind of controller you use to fight in TFH?

  • Mixbox

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • A guitar from guitar hero?

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • A steering weel???

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • WITH YOUR MIND!!!!!!!

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    11

PichiQaz

Member
Jul 2, 2018
10
13
Whatever custom Fightstick, decal, or any kind of TFH controler/hardware goes here.

For the last months I've been working in a Fifghtstick because TFH is my first proper fighting game,and the first step was making the desighn in solid works of the case:
Gabinete Final Zurdo.png

Vista Isometrica Gabinete.png

Now the design is done, the MDF can be cutted in the needed pieces and glued:
37559726_10210257831956806_1905750909917331456_n.jpg

Then making the holes for the buttons in the covers:
44570363_2169051199978731_6620073766112198656_n.jpg

44569167_180955252810869_7321300230282936320_n (1).jpg

Now that the holes are in the covers, a layer of primer:
45017841_559423401171983_5954807903469699072_n.jpg

While everything was being painted, i used a cardoard case for making the test of the circuits:
43622221_295185547752688_4596118449901535232_n.jpg

And also, a unique feature of this fight sitck, is that a cover can be removed and changed to one with directional arrows, but to do that, I had to design a PCB specialy for the cherry mx brown switches I decided to use, and this was the final design of that PCB:
upload_2019-1-26_5-31-25.png

upload_2019-1-26_5-31-59.png

Paprika Supervised the hole project:
46628641_308886596391232_8037694027862114304_n.jpg

And the final PCB look like this:
DSC_0182.JPG

DSC_0186.JPG

With the circuit finished it's time to solder the buttons and ad a plastic base, that can be seen in part 246628641_308886596391232_8037694027862114304_n.jpg
 
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PichiQaz

Member
Jul 2, 2018
10
13
DSC_0190.JPG

DSC_0191.JPG

(The cardbox was temporal)
And now that the electric part is finished, I can put together the MDF case and the buttons and this is the result:
DSC_0193.JPG

The blue one is going to be for a friend of mine, and I will keep the orange one.
And paprika is in it:
DSC_0200.JPG

It took me some months finish it, but I did my own custom fightstick/mixbox:
DSC_0196.JPG

This is how it looks with the stick:
50632928_2444905702396563_3483124159574179840_n.jpg

Thanks Mane 6 for making this amazing game, keep all that good job.
You inspire some of us to do things outside our comfort zone.



Did I mention the directional arrows are RGB lighted?
51346433_374938493285558_1853263007946113024_n.jpg


Keep that good work guys, you are the best.
 
Last edited:

PichiQaz

Member
Jul 2, 2018
10
13
That's really cool. What are you using to produce your own PCBs?
I used a standard phenolic sheet (copper and fiber glass) and the process of making the PCB was with a screen printing technique, in which you have to use a a screen that is made of a piece of mesh stretched over a frame:
DSC_0155.JPG

The mesh with the design in it (to put the design in the mesh, I go to a place they specialize in doing so and it cost 3 dls) and the squeegee (the wooden with aluminum thing with plastic, on the right part of the image) can be seen there.

WARNING: Whenever you work with chemicals always wear gloves, cover your mouth, nose and use eye wear.

When having them, the next step is to put the copper plate under (in the last image, the copper is already under, that's why the upper square is more yellow) and pass a layer of special ink with the squeegee and the result will be this:
DSC_0158.JPG
If you are making a simple circuit with just 1 layer, that should be it, but this one needed 2 layers (both faces of the phenolic plate, not two layers of ink in the same face), which means I have to repeat the same process with the other face. But to do that you can pray for the holes to end up aligned, or you can drill guide holes. The drill points where 0.8 and 0.4 mm (0.0314961 and 0.015748 inches) wide. Usually you use a cnc to drill stuff like that, but my lack of equipment (I literally did all in my room) made me use a regular drill:
DSC_0162.JPG


And after breaking a tip, the guide holes were done and cleaned the mesh from the pain residue, I repeated the process with the other face of the plate and in ended like this:
DSC_0163.JPG


PRO TIP: Always chech that your safety gear can withstand the chemicals you are using:
DSC_0159.JPG

(It didn't hurt me, but my skin got reallly dry, and can cause sickness on the long run, so ALWAYS CHECK YOUR GEAR!!!)

Now that both faces had a layer of ink, you submerge the whole thing in ferric chloride to "disolve" the copper exposed, leaving only the copper under the ink intact, like this:
DSC_0169.JPG
DSC_0170.JPG

Then you clean the ink with "xilol" (I have no idea how that translate's to english, but is stronger than paint thinner and ate through my gloves) and you will have the circuit under, and it will look like this:
DSC_0171.JPG

DSC_0174.JPG

Then you have to drill all the holes for the circuits and the buttons, solder all the elements to it, and that's how you can have your own pcb :D
DSC_0182.JPG

When you design everything from scratch, you can put whatever design you want in it, as long as it doesn't interfere with the electrical part.

But all that was just for wiring the cherry switches and the RGB part, there had to be a plastic part in which the switches rest, so the hitting impact doesn't reach the pcb and damage the circuit on the long run, that is why I used red foamed PVC, so it looked like this when finished:
DSC_0189.JPG
 
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